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About Trains

                   Things You Need to Know About your Old Trains

Track Dimensions and Details:
What kind of track and switch gear can I use for my toy train outfit?


There are many answers to this question, but in general, bigger is better in terms of diameter. The train will run faster and more easily on large diameter track. Here are some common track dimensions:

O-Gauge - 1-1/8” between outer rails; diameters of 27, 31, 42, 54, 72, 36 (Super-O)
Standard Gauge - 2-1/4” between outer rails; diameters of 48, 54, 72
S-Gauge - 2 Rail American Flyer 7/8” between rails; 54” Diameter

Manufacturers: Lionel, Ives, American Flyer (Pre-WW2 Std. and O; Post-WW2 "S")

Some track can be intermingled between manufacturers, especially O-31 & Std. 48. Many of the other track types will not pin together because of different pin styles and the height to the top of the rail.

Manually and electrically operated switches and cross-over tracks are available for all gauges and diameters.

Lionel made specialty tracks for accessory operation and uncoupling in gauges O-27, O-31 and Super-O. The multi-conductor wiring to accessory tracks is often found deteriorated and non-useable, but replacement wire is available.


I have track and rolling stock:
What kind of Transformer do I need?

Almost all trains produced before 1965 use AC transformers that produce voltages in finely stepped increments with maximums between 16 and 25 volts. Most "O" gauge trains will run on 19 volts, while Standard Gauge trains typically require slightly more voltage. Some transformers have built-in whistle and direction controls, but whistle controllers are also available as stand-alone units. Transformers are typically classified by the wattage (power output) that the transformer can produce. We can assist you in selecting the best transformer to operate your train layout.


I need help selecting a transformer for pre-1938 Wide Gauge American Flyer?

Lionel Transformers are the most abundant and easy to find. They will run American Flyer, Ives and Lionel Wide / Standard Gauge trains. The Lionel Type Z (250 Watts), V (150 Watts) and R (100 Watts) Transformers are recommended. The output power will dictate the number of trains / accessories that can be run at a given time:
Lionel Type Z will run any combination of four standard gauge and O-gauge trains.
Lionel Type V will run two standard gauge and two O-gauge trains, at one time.
Lionel Type R will run two standard gauge or two O-gauge trains, at one time.


Wheels and Gears:
How do I fix the wheels on my locomotive which are chipped and will not turn?


Locomotives made before WW-2 were prone to having their zinc die cast wheels crack apart with age. Fortunately, replacement wheels are available for all gauges and ages of locomotives and can be replaced for a fraction of the locomotive’s value. Even if a wheel is not completely disintegrated, it still tends to expand in thickness such that the locomotive will not operate on curved portions of track.Until the advent of Post WW-2 diesel locomotives, almost all engines, both electric and steam, used a system of spur gears to reduce the motor’s rpm to the drive wheels. A large final gear was attached to the driving wheels on one side of the locomotive. If the motor is to be able to deliver enough power to run the locomotive well, it should be possible to spin the armature easily by turning the drive wheels. Proper lubrication can sometimes improve a bad outcome, but often gears are worn or damaged or pieces in the locomotive’s valve gear are binding. Replacements for gears and valve gear are available.


Motors:
Why will my locomotive not run when I put it on the track?

All of the AC toy train motors have a pair of spring loaded metallic-carbon brushes that contact the three segments of the armature (a group of parts known as the commutator). A couple of common problems found in old motors are worn brushes and/or dirty commutator. We can assist you in finding and resolving the problem.


Lubrication:
My train runs, but it is balky. Is it just too old or can it be improved?

Almost all toy train axles and armatures used steel shafts running against bronze sleeve bearings. Gears were generally steel against steel. If gears, axles, and armatures were not kept properly lubricated, the motor would eventually bind up and stop turning. Lionel included a tube of their “Lionel Lubricant” with each outfit they sold, but this material would become sticky and bind up with age, necessitating a thorough cleaning and re-lubrication of the motor. Sewing machine oil or premium 3-In-One Oil applied with an oiling syringe works best.


Reversing Switches (Manual and Automatic):
I have the transformer hooked up to a controller and a nearby track, but why will it not operate?

Almost all locomotives had some means of switching the motor to run backwards. Early locomotives had manually operated switches with multiple contacts, but in the 1920’s Ives invented an ingenious device that would automatically reverse the locomotive upon interruption of track power. When Lionel bought Ives in 1928, they improved upon this mechanism and utilized it for decades to come. It is known as the “E-unit” or Drum type mechanism (because of its internal appearance).

Prior to introducing the improved version of the Ives reverser, Lionel designed what is today known as the Pendulum reverse unit (again, named because of its appearance). These bulky units were prone to a host of problems because of their complexity, but can generally be repaired to perform in an acceptable manner.

American Flyer developed its own automatic reverse scheme that circumvented the Lionel and Ives patents, but was not as reliable. Like the Lionel Pendulum reverse units, these can generally be repaired to work acceptably.

The reverse mechanisms and wiring to and from the reverse mechanisms are the number one source of motor malfunctions. Whether being a manual switch or remotely activated contactor, these delicate devices will often corrode or break. Replacement parts are available and can be replaced by our skilled technician.



Train Whistles and Horns:
My train runs, but why does the whistle not work?

Beginning in about 1935, Lionel equipped many steam locomotives with a whistle that could be remotely controlled. The basic design remained through the 1960’s, but whistles were prone to numerous types of failures. They contained a blower motor with an impeller, controlled by a special relay. The mechanism was packed inside the tender. Many whistle problems can be solved by simple lubrication, but the blower impeller is prone to breaking. Replacement impellers are available and can be installed by our knowledgeable technician.

Diesel
locomotives contained a battery operated bicycle horn operated by the same special relay found in the whistle. The compartment holding the battery is often found severely corroded after the battery leaked corrosive materials from old age. Battery compartment damage can usually be repaired but will leave a few tell tale signs.


Train Accessories:
My accessory looks great, but why does it not operate properly?

Not withstanding light bulbs and internal wiring thereto, most operating accessories contain solenoids with plungers or electro-magnets that operated vibrators. Often the plunger in the solenoid will seize from decades of corrosion, but just as frequently the fine wire coming off the solenoid will break. The broken wires can often be repaired if the break is accessible.


Are there other Manufacturers and Train Gauges?

High quality antique trains can be found from manufacturers such as Bing, Marklin, Carlisle & Finch, Dorfan, Boucher, and Voltamp, to name a few. But, these are so rare that their price point is often not within reach of the general public. Replacement parts are practically non-existent.

Trains made by the Louis Marx Co. are both inexpensive and ubiquitous, but are of a much lower quality than those of the other manufacturers stated in these pages. Their market price point often makes them un-economical to repair unless the trains are in pristine condition with original cartons.

After World War II, American Flyer produced a nicely detailed line of “S” Gauge (3/16” to the foot) trains that ran on realistic two rail track. Many excellent examples of these trains can be found today, and those produced before 1969 are easy to repair.

Many model railroading enthusiasts prefer "HO" scale (one-half of "O" gauge) with its realistic proportions and the efficient space utilization. However: "HO" items are generally finicky and lack the durability and play value of "O" and Standard Gauge items which feature numerous operating cars and accessories.

Brush Assembly:
What tips do you have on how to install slotted motor brushes for my 1934 Lionel train, without losing the brushes?

The diagram shows how to hold back the brush springs, to insert the brushes without losing them:




Tips for Operating Lionel, American Flyer, and Ives Standard & 0-Gauge Trains

General Information

The toy trains discussed here can be either Standard or 0-Gauge and run on three rail track. All of these are powered by an AC transformer which can deliver a variety of fixed and variable voltages. The voltage and current required depend on the size and power of the locomotive, the number of accessories and light bulbs in use, and the number of cars being pulled, etc. The product of the transformer’s voltage and current is called its wattage and determines its size (and cost). Small 0-27 sets require as little as 50 watts, while large layouts with several locomotives and numerous accessories can make good use of the 275 watt ZW transformer. Locomotives will require between 6 and 22 volts and up to 5 amps to operate at speed and under load.

By convention, the center rail of the three rail track system has the active voltage which goes to the pickup contacts under the locomotive. The two outer rails are the neutral side for track voltage, and will be connected together by the wheel sets of the locomotives and cars. When adding additional spurs, sidings, accessories, or powered loops, this must be considered, or else shorting may take place. It is best to use color coded wires from the transformer to the track connector (“Lockon”) so as to prevent future difficulties.


Transformers

Lionel transformers (which also operate the other mentioned trains) share a similar terminal convention. A variety of fixed voltages are available between certain combined terminals, as labeled. These may be used for powering accessories (crossing gates, light towers). Variable voltages for operating the locos use terminal “U” as the neutral and one or more other terminals for obtaining a range of variable voltages, such as 5 to 16 or 6 to 20. Each transformer type has its own voltage combinations, but they all have a label indicating the possible choices. The oldest transformers (used for locomotives without E-­unit reversing) provide variable voltages in a succession of steps, which can be seen as brass buttons on top of the transformer. A type 81 rheostat (variable resistor) may be placed in series with the track supply to smooth operation between these steps.


Whistles

In the mid 1930’s, Lionel began to offer an operating steam whistle located in the tender of locomotives. The whistle is really a small fan motor and a tuned chamber which makes an appropriate sound when air is pushed through it. A motor control relay is operated either by the whistle bottom/lever of the transformer or by a #161 whistle controller wired in series with the track voltage supply. Pressing the whistle button causes a small DC voltage to be impressed on to the normal AC track supply. This in turn closes a DC relay in the whistle mechanism, allowing the impeller motor to run. Whistle tenders have pickup rollers to contact the track center rail so that power may be obtained. Because DC voltage is added to the normal track supply, the train may sometimes speed up when whistling. Use of the old whistle controller in series will cause the train to slow, because it “steals” some AC voltage in order to provide the DC for the whistle relay. Diesel locomotives with horns also use a DC relay to activate the sound, but the horn is powered by a D size battery inside the loco. Care must be taken to assure that this battery is fresh, as corrosion products can leak out and damage the engine.


Coupling and Un-Coupling

Lionel first began to offer cars with electrically operated uncoupling mechanisms in the late 1930’s. These mechanisms consisted of a track pickup contact between the center and outside rails, a coil, an armature which was moved by current in the coil, and a box or knuckle which released adjacent cars by lifting or opening. The operating couplers required use of a special track section called the “RCS”, which included two additional rails which made contact with the pickups under the cars. When the “Uncouple” button is pressed, track voltage is supplied to the uncoupling rails and car pickups, opening the knuckles or lifting the boxes (pre-war). Cars may be re-coupled by backing the train into the stray cars. This should be done on a straight section of track.

Cars made after 1949 did not use a coil in the coupler. Instead, an additional electromagnet was placed in the newer RCS sections which pulled down a metal section under the car truck. This released a pin, opening the knuckle. The electromagnet only, mounted in an 0-27 track section, is also available for uncoupling. A momentary push button should be wired in series with this section. Current should pass from the track lockon (center rail terminal), into the push button, then into one magnet terminal, and finally from the other magnet terminal to track neutral (outside rails). The electromagnet can also be used to activate the plunger on the underside of some operating box cars, opening the door to deploy a workman figure.


Operating Accessories

A huge variety of operating accessories was made by all toy train manufacturers. Description of each is beyond the scope of this document, but there are different classes which are broadly described here in numbered sections. Yard lighting is most easily powered from fixed transformer taps of 12 volts or so and requires no further discussion. Most accessory types described in the text which follows operate best with around 12 volts, either from a fixed voltage tap or set by the transformer’s track supply.

1. Crossing Accessories

Accessories falling into this class are the #45/145 automatic gateman, the #152 gate, or the ,#140 “Banjo” signal. They can be powered by track voltage picked up from a nearby lockon or from 12 volts fixed supply from transformer terminals. These are normally activated with a spring loaded contacting switch placed under the track. The weight of a passing train closes a connection, working the apparatus. The pressure switch should be wired to complete the path of current from the power source though the solenoid in the apparatus. Items with a separate light have an additional terminal to power just that. Normally the metal body of the accessory is the neutral for both the light and solenoid.

2. Trackside Accessories Using the RCS Section

This class of items comprises operating cars such as the Milk Can or Container Unloading Cars, Log Dumping or Coal Dumping Cars. These cars have two shoes on the underside of their trucks. Pressing the “Unload” button of the RCS applies track voltage between both shoes, operating the mechanism. Nothing else is required besides an RCS and a platform or unloading bin.

3. More Elaborate Trackside Accessories

This class of accessories consists of items such as the Cattle or Horse Unloading Corral, the Barrel Unloader/Loader, Lumber Loader, and the Coal Ramp. With a switch in series for starting and stopping the accessory, a lockon mounted nearby should be used to bring track voltage to the two binding posts of the item. Normally the metal housing is the neutral, so avoid shorts between this and the center track rail. Stop the train so the car is directly over the accessory and set the transformer voltage such that the smoothest operation is obtained. The doors and vibrating ramps of cattle and horse cars are powered by the main platform.

4. Block Indicating and Control Signals

Lionel and others made numerous track block control and indicating items. The most simple of these, the #151 Semaphore and #153 Block signal, may be operated by a track pressure contact wired in series with their voltage supply. The more elaborate controls are capable of starting and stopping trains on various blocks or in stations. All of these require wiring instructions too involved to list here. If possible, obtain a copy of Lionel’s original wiring sheet or consult an experienced dealer. Note that special track fiber isolating pins are required to accommodate many of these devices.

5. Lionel Electrically Operated Switches

These fall into two classes, normal and non-derailing. The non-derailing types require fiber insulating pins to be placed on the two inside rails at those ends of the switch which must be thrown to prevent derailing. The leading trucks of approaching locos will connect the 2 outer rails to properly set the switch. Normal operation of all switches (RedlGreen) is accomplished by making a momentary connection between the center binding post and either outside post. This applies power from the track through the internal solenoids, causing them to move in or out and change the switch position. Any pair of momentary push buttons can control switches.




The Steam Locomotives depicted here are representative of the engines made in the late 1930's through the 1950's. The Diesel Locomotives were made in the 1940's and 1950's. Engines made before the 1930's are wired in a very similar fashion to the depictions below; except the reversing may be manual.

The following sheets are copyright Popular Science Magazine, 1959.














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