Restoration Project:

Lionel #260E Engine and #260T Twelve-Wheel Tender - Completely restored
Things You Need to Know About your Old Trains Track Dimensions and Details: What kind of track and switch gear can I use for my outfit? There are many answers to this question, but in general, bigger is better in terms of diameter. The train will run faster and more easily on large diameter track. Here are some common track dimensions: O-Gauge (1-1/8” between outer rails): diameters of 27, 31, 42, 54, 72, 36 (Super-O) Standard Gauge (2-1/4” between outer rails): diameters of 48, 54, 72 ”S” Gauge 2 Rail (American Flyer 7/8” between rails): 54” Diameter Manufacturers: Lionel, , Ives, American Flyer (pre WW2 Std. and O, Post WW2 "S") Some track can be intermingled between manufacturers, especially O-31 & Std 48. Many of the other track types will not pin together because of different pin styles and the height to the top of the rail. Manually and electrically operated switches and cross-over tracks are available for all gauges and diameters. Lionel made specialty tracks for accessory operation and uncoupling in gauges O-27, O-31, and Super-O. The multi-conductor wiring to accessory tracks is often found deteriorated and non-useable, but replacement wire is available. Until the advent of Post WW 2 diesel locomotives, almost all engines, both electric and steam, used a system of spur gears to reduce the motor’s rpm to the drive wheels. A large final gear was attached to the driving wheels on one side of the loco. If the motor is to be able to deliver enough power to run the loco well, it should be possible to spin the armature easily by turning the drive wheels. Proper lubrication can sometimes improve a bad outcome, but often gears are worn or damaged or pieces in the locomotive’s valve gear are binding. Replacements for gears and valve gear are available. All of the AC toy train motors have a pair of spring loaded metallic-carbon brushes that contact the 3 segments of the armature (a group of parts known as the commutator). A couple of common problems found in old motors are worn brushes and/or dirty commutator. We can assist you in finding and resolving the problem. I have the switched hooked up to its controller and a nearby track, but it will not operate? Almost all locomotives had some means of switching the motor to run backwards. Early locos had manually operated switches with multiple contacts, but in the 1920’s Ives invented an ingenious device that would automatically reverse the loco upon interruption of track power. When Lionel bought Ives in 1928, they improved upon this mechanism and utilized it for decades to come. It is known as the “E-unit” or Drum type mechanism (because of its internal appearance). Prior to introducing its improved version of the Ives reverser, Lionel designed what is today known as the Pendulum reverse unit (again, named because of its appearance). These bulky units were prone to a host of problems because of their complexity, but can generally be repaired to perform in an acceptable manner. American Flyer developed its own automatic reverse scheme that circumvented the Lionel and Ives patents, but was not as reliable. Like the Lionel Pendulum reverse units, these can generally be repaired to be acceptable. My train runs, but the whistle does not work? Beginning in about 1935, Lionel equipped many steam locomotives with a whistle that could be remotely controlled. The basic design remained through the 1960’s, but whistles were prone to numerous types of failures, as they contained a blower motor with an impeller, controlled by a special relay. The mechanism was packed inside the tender. Many whistle problems can be solved by simple lubrication, but the blower impeller is prone to breaking. Replacement impellers are available and can be installed by knowledgeable technicians. Diesel locomotives contained a battery operated bicycle horn operated by the same special relay found in the whistle. The compartment holding the battery is often found severely corroded after the battery leaked corrosive materials from old age. Other Manufacturers and Other Gauge Trains: Trains made by the Louis Marx Co. are both inexpensive and ubiquitous, but are of a much lower quality than those of the other manufacturers stated in these pages. Their market price point often makes them un-economical to repair unless in pristine condition with original cartons.
I have track and rolling stock: What kind of Transformer do I need?
Almost all trains produced before 1965 use AC transformers that produce voltages in finely stepped increments with maximums between 16 and 25 volts. Most "O" gauge trains will run on 19 volts, while Standard Gauge trains typically require slightly more voltage. Some transformers have built-in whistle and direction controls, but whistle controllers are also available as stand-along units. Transformers are typically classified by the wattage (power output) that the transformer can produce. We can assist you in selecting the right transformer to operate your train layout.
Wheels and Gears:
The wheels on my locomotive are chipped and will not turn?
Motors:
I put the locomotive on the track, but it will not run?
Lubrication:
My train runs, but it is balky. Is it just old or can it be improved?
Almost all toy train axles and armatures used steel shafts running against bronze sleeve bearings. Gears were generally steel against steel. If gears, axles, and armatures were not kept properly lubricated, the motor would eventually bind up and stop turning. Lionel included a tube of their “Lionel Lubricant” with each outfit they sold, but this material would become sticky and bind up with age, necessitating a thorough clean and re-lubrication of the motor. Sewing machine oil or premium 3-In-One Oil applied with an oiling syringe works best.
Reversing Switches (Manual and Automatic):
Train Whistles and Horns:
Train Accessories:
My accessory looks great, but it does not operate properly?
Not withstanding light bulbs and internal wiring thereto, most operating accessories contain solenoids with plungers or electro-magnets that operated vibrators. Often the plunger in the solenoid will seize from decades of corrosion, but just as frequently the fine wire coming off the solenoid will break. The broken wires can often be repaired if the break is accessible.
High quality antique trains can be found from manufacturers such as Bing, Marklin, Carlisle & Finch, Dorfan, Boucher, and Voltamp, to name a few. But, these are so rare that their price point is often not within reach of the general public. Replacement parts are practically non-existent.
After World War II, American Flyer produced a nicely detailed line of “S” Gauge (3/16” to the foot) trains that ran on realistic 2 rail track. Many excellent examples of these trains can be found today, and those produced before 1969 are easy to repair.
Many model railroading enthusiasts prefer "HO" scale (one-half of "O" gauge) with its realistic proportions and the efficient space utilitization. However, "HO" items are generally finicky and lack the durability and play value of "O" and Standard Gauge items which feature numerous operating cars and accessories.
Brush Assembly:
What tips do you have on how to install slotted motor brushes for my 1934 Lionel train, without losing the brushes?
The diagram shows how to hold back the brush springs, to inserrt the brushes without losing them:
Good luck.
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